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Wool Biology and Measurement

Current Version

WOOL-372 was originally issued in 2008 as WOOL-472-572. It was created with funding provided by the Sheep CRC supported by AWET. UNE, charged with creating the unit, initially presented the material with lecture notes in DOC and PDF format, and included copies of many of the references appended to the lectures. Presentations in Powerpoint format were also provided for each topic. There were 18 topics in the original module.

The revised version, released in 2012, was subject to a number of minor amendments, mostly related to formatting. The first 5 topics have had some additional text added, but they are substantially the same as the 2008 version.

Funded by AWET, the original and subsequent versions of this module have been substantially edited to remove a considerable amount of detail in order to provide a broader overview of this important topic.

This updated 2020 module includes 15 topics.

Topic 1: Skin Structure and Function

This topic should provide you with:

• knowledge of some of the functions of the skin
• knowledge of development of wool follicles in the skin and some of the mechanisms involved in the formation of mature follicles growing wool
• the ability to critically assess scientific and other professional literature on wool growth in relation to commercial implications

Topic 2: Structure of the Fibre

On completion of this topic you should have:

• the structure of wool as a complex tissue containing dead cells filled with proteins that
provide it with the mechanical properties that make it a textile fibre
• An overview of the properties of wool in relation to its structure

Topic 3: Follicle Kinetics

On completion of this topic, you should be able to:

• Describe the techniques that are routinely used to measure cell kinetics, wool growth rates and wool quality
• Explain the application and limitations of each technique
• Outline the basic biochemical and molecular mechanisms underpinning wool growth rates in the mature wool follicle
• Critically assess scientific papers and related professional literature on factors influencing wool growth and fleece quality and the methods used to quantify the responses

Topic 4: Genetic Engineering

On completion of this topic you should have an understanding of:

• The opportunity that transgenesis presents for the modification of wool properties
• The method used to make transgenic sheep and results from early experiments
• The genes that can be used as transgenes
• The potential wool fibre modifications that could be made by transgenesis
• The issues of biosafety, ethics and acceptance in relation to the use of transgenesis in sheep

Topic 5: Wool Measurement Principles and Sampling Techniques

By the end of this topic, you should have:

• an understanding of the essential technical requirements of wool measurement systems
• an understanding of the sources of variation within wool metrology systems
• knowledge of the procedures by which metrology standards are developed, including
the role of IWTO
• knowledge of the procedures whereby the technical limitations of metrology systems are managed
• the meaning of common statistical terms used in wool metrology
• the development of standard test methods
• Describe the reason grab and core samples are taken from wool bales
• Describe the equipment used for grab and core sampling wool bales
• Understand the sampling factors that influence the precision of wool test results

Topic 6: Yield

By the end of this topic, you should have:

• an understanding of the importance of Yield to the textile manufacturer
• an understanding of the processes involved in producing an estimate for Yield
• knowledge of the components which lead to estimates of Yield
• knowledge of the different types of Yield estimates available and the markets in which they most commonly apply
• an understanding of the requirements in providing an estimate of Yield on an IWTO
Test Certificate

Topic 7: Fibre Diameter

On completion of this topic you should have an understanding of:

• the relevance of Fibre Diameter to wool fibre value, processing performance and end product quality
• the difference between visual appraisal and measurement of Fibre Diameter
• the sources of variation in Fibre Diameter measurement
• sampling and sample preparation for the four (4) Standard methods of Fibre Diameter measurement, viz. Projection Microscope, Airflow, Laserscan and OFDA 100
• Fibre Diameter testing of top, slivers, core and fleece samples (including On-farm
Testing)
• compare the precision levels possible with the various instruments used for measuring mean fibre diameter

Topic 8: Staple Length, Staple Strength and Position of Break

By the end of this topic, you should have:

• an understanding of the limitations associated with subjective appraisal of Staple
Length, Staple Strength and Position of Break
• an understanding of the relationship between Staple and Fibre properties e.g. Staple Length and Fibre Length, Staple Strength and Fibre Tenacity
• an understanding of the principles of objective measurement on an ATLAS instrument including the requirements of the IWTO Test Method

Topic 9: Wool Style and Wool Colour Measurement

By the end of this topic, you should have:

• an understanding of the subjective nature of traditional wool style
• an understanding of the components of style and how these may be objectively measured
• an understanding of the impact of style and components of style on early stage processing
• Explain the importance of colour measurement for wool and why there is a wide
variation in wool colour
• Explain the specific requirements in wool colour measurement regarding sample preparation, its presentation to the instrument and the calibration procedure
• Differentiate between the base colour and as-is colour of wool

Topic 10: Contamination

By the end of this topic you should have an understanding of:

• The source of contamination:
– contamination of wool origin; viz. urine-stained, pigmented and medullated
fibres
– contamination of non-wool origin, viz. wool packs, farm objects (including baling
twine), mill packs and mill objects
• The problems created by each form of contamination
• Methods to minimise the risk of contamination
• Future developments

Topic 11: Fibre Curvature, Crimp Frequency, Resistance to Compression and Bulk

By the end of this topic, you should have:

• an understanding of the measurements of fibre shape
• an understanding of the principles of measurement of Bulk and Resistance to
Compression
• an understanding of the relationship between Bulk and Resistance to Compression
• an appreciation of the measurement of Crimp Frequency
• an understanding of the commercial measurement of Fibre Curvature

Topic 12: Use of Measurement in Prediction Technology

At the completion of this topic you will have an understanding of:

• the commercial importance of objective measurement in topmaking and blend
engineering and how prediction formulae are developed and used
• an insight into the flexibility of prediction and its benefits

Topic 13: Wool Top Measurement

By the end of this topic, you should have:

• an understanding of the measurements of fibre shape
• have an understanding of top measurement principles, the differences that accompany different systems and the effect these have in respect to spinning and trading in tops
• understand the underlying basis of the current system along with the principles of
calculating results
• appreciate the importance of prediction technology to top length measurement

Topic 14: Measurements of Yarn and Fabric

At the completion of this topic you will have and understanding of:

• Explain how the constructional parameters, evenness and tensile properties of yarn are
measured and interpreted
• Describe the features of a software system for predicting the properties and spinning
performance of worsted yarn
• Outline the principles by which the tensile, dimensional stability, serviceability, drape and other mechanical properties of fabrics are determined
• Describe and compare the two instrument systems for objectively measuring the handle and related properties of fabrics

Topic 15: Recent Developments in Wool Metrology

By the end of this topic, you should have:

• an appreciation of the factors which drive developments in wool metrology; and
• a guide to possible future developments in wool metrology